An ambergris and gold Indonesian or Dutch colonial perfume pendant in the form of a mangosteen fruit
Indonesia, probably 18th century
L. 3.5cm x diam. 2.5cm Weight 18,66 grams
Ambergris, or ‘Ambar’ in Indonesian, is often dubbed the ‘gold of the sea’. It is a rare and precious substance with a history as intriguing as its aroma. Originating from the intestines of sperm whales, it forms when the whale's digestive system produces a secretion to envelop and protect its intestines from the sharp beaks of consumed squid. Over time, this substance hardens and is either expelled by the whale or becomes part of its remains when it dies.
Historically, ambergris was highly coveted by ancient civilizations. The Egyptians burned it as incense, while the Chinese cherished it for its medicinal properties. In medieval Europe, it was used both as a fragrance and as a flavouring agent for food and drinks. Its unique musky and earthy scent made it a key ingredient in high-end perfumes, a use that continues to this day.
The allure of ambergris is matched only by its rarity. Since it's found floating in tropical waters or washed ashore, its discovery is often accidental. The unpredictable nature of its occurrence has made it a valuable commodity, being worth more than gold.